Blending emulsifiers

Blending emulsifiers is one of my favorite topics.

You may ask: why on earth shall we blend emulsifiers? Are there not enough blends available on the market?

Well, there are certainly more than enough emulsifier blends available on the market but I love to make my own blends for synergistic effects to improve the stability, texture, skin feel and efficacy.

In this formulation I have blended GSC palm oil free which is one of my all-time favorites with the emulsifying gel-eco (we are not allowed to use the trade name but by searching the INCI name you'll figure out which commercial emulsifier it is). The latter is both an emulsifier and a stabilizer and I have replaced the gum with it. Since it needs heat and time for full hydration the process will take a little more time but the outcome is worth every additional minute you spend to create this cream.

Procedure:

1- Blend phase A in the main vessel and heat it @60 C

2- Add phase B and continue stirring and heating for 30 minutes

3- Add phase C in another beaker. Heat phase A+B and C separately @80-85 C

4- When all of phase C is melted homogenize the oil phase in the water phase

5- Start stirring and cooling down.

6- Add the ceramide to the cream before the temperature drops under 50 C

7- Continue stirring while cooling down. At a temperature <50 C add phase E.

8- Ar a temperature <30 C add phase F

9- As the emulsion reached the RT prepare a 10% dilution and measure the pH. In our case it was 5,78 and we reduced it to 5,4 by adding lactic acid. The preservative system we are using is independent of the pH and we aim a pH between 4,8-5,5

10- Take your stability and microbial samples and fill the rest in suitable containers