What a delightful way to start the spring (although the weather will not really move on towards spring yet).
This is not a KISS lotion in terms of number of ingredients but the procedure is really KISS. I just wanted to indulge myself and you in a beautiful ultrahydrating emulsion with phospholipid touch.
Lysolecithin is a partially hydrolyzed and hydrophilic version of the lecithin. It has all the amazing properties of the lecithin when it comes to skin feel and barrier protection but it is much easier to work with as an emulsifier. You can work cold or hot process and you can choose a broad range of oil phase from 5-40% and create a broad range of serums and emulsions. They all have a medium to low viscosity and a light skin feel even by 40% oil phase concentration.
For this emulsion we processed cold and this is why I indulged myself and used a lot of active ingredients which are usually heat sesitive and not quite easy to work in a hot process.
The procedure is really straightforward although the number of ingredients might seem intimidating.
You need to hydrate the lysolecithin in the water phase. We did this at the same time with the gum. Dispersed the gum and added the lysolecithin and let the whole mixture stir @RT for 30 minutes. From here it was really easy to move on. Just emulsify the oil phase in the water phase. Add the preservative and measure and adjust the pH.
1-Blend phase A & D in separate beakers.
2-Add the lysolecithin and to phase A and immediately disperse the gum to the water phase. Let the blend stir @RT for 30-40 minutes.
3- Emulsify the oil phase to the water phase and further stir for about 30 minutes @Rt
4- Add phase E and blend.
5- Make a 10% dilution and measure the pH. In our case it was 5,09 and that is perfectly all right. If your pH is too low add more arginin at the beginning. If your pH is higher than 5,5 add some lactic acid to reduce the pH