Seboregulative hydrating serum

Following our other posts about seboregulative formulations, we are sharing this effective hydrating gel for acne prone and overly active sebaceous skin.

The active ingredient here, like in the previous formulations is our natural active decalact sebum

Natural active decalact sebum | 5 gr | KL-220-17-5
INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate; Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate; Glycerin; Serenoa Serrulata (saw palmetto) Fruit Extract; Juniperus Communis Fruit ExtractNatural active decalact sebum is a specialty blend for treatment of acne prone skin. It is a natura…

which is a blend of plant extracts in a plant based carrier that regulates sebum secretion without fanning the flames of inflation of the skin. This is a soothing ingredient that brings magic to acne prone skin in teenagers as well as adults.

The list of the ingredients seems long and the number of phases may be intimidating but the most complex and time consuming part of this formulation is the hydration of the gum. If you are not quite fit in gum dispersion and hydration and don't know which gums need time and heat for complete dispersion we have a free guide for you:

Your ultimate guide for gum dispersion | DP-gums24
This is a free booklet providing you with information about the process of gum dispersion and hydration and the requirements for some of the most common gums used in cosmeticsDownload here

Procedure:

1- Blend phase A and C in separate containers

2- Heat phase A around 45-50 C

3- Disperse and hydrate the gum at this temperature for 40-50 minutes

4- When the gum is completely hydrated stop heating and start cooling down while stirring.

5- At a temperature <40 C add phase C and D

6- As the serum reaches RT prepare a 10% dilution and measure the pH. The pH must be between 5,0-6,5 before you add the nicotinamide (this is why we added L-Arginine in the hydrosol phase)

7- Add the nicotinamide and then add the preservatives.

8- Prepare another 10% dilution and remeasure the pH.

9- Adjust the pH between 5,2-5,5 by adding lactic acid if necessary

10- Take your microbial and stability samples and fill the rest in suitable containers

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