What's happening in our lab this week

I wanted to share two exciting ingredients that we have been working with during this week.

One of them is an upcycled extract from pumpkin seed cake. The amino acids in this extract are very similar to the amino acids that build the collagen, the protein in our connective tissue that literally holds our skin together and is responsible for skin firmness and hydration.

Even though I am not vegan, I am not happy with using animal collagen in my skin and hair care. It's quite a personal preference. Apart from that, the intact collagen has a very high molecular weight and is pretty much ineffective in topical applications. This is why you usually see the hydrolyzed collagen in hair and skin care which is, well, the protein broken to its amino acid units.

Now in this ingredient which they call phytocollagen, the main aminoacids of the collagen: glycine, proline, analine are present and it is supposed to promote skin firmness, elasticity and hydration. We are right now busy with the technical part of the formulation process and will keep you updated about our results.

The other ingredient we have been working with is the laminaria japonica extract, rich in a sulfated polysaccharide usually found in the walls of some species of seaweed. Fucoidan is the holy grail of nutrition and health care since a few years and they attribute antitumor, antiangiogenic , antiviral , antiarthritic and immunomodulatory effects to it. Now commercial extracts of the seaweed rich in fucoidan are available that enhance skin hydration (hyaluron the skin and connective tissues own moisturizing magician is a polysaccaride as well), synthesis of fibroblasts and collagen and imparts anti-inflammatory and UV-protective properties.

Right now we are working on the stability of the formulation as well as the impact of these extracts on the scent, color and skin feel of the formulations.

Stay tuned for the updates.