Acne relief, gel-to-milk cleanser

waterless and preservative-free seboregulative gel-to-milk cleansers

During the last couple of years we have shared zillions of tutorials and formulations with Sapogel Q which is an outstanding all natural ingredient for creating water less rinse-off and leave-on products.

When working with Sapogel Q, the polarity of the oil and the procedure can make or break the whole formulation. Sapogel doesn't work in a one-pot manner and you can not simply dump everything together and go. Working with Sapogel needs patience but it is very rewarding. The possibilities are endless.

Today we are going to share the formulation for two very similar but not identical gel to milk cleansers.

These two formulations are both seboregulative and thanks to active ingredients such as curcuma xanthorrhiza extract, tamanu oil, copaiba resin and decalact sebum impart anti bacterial and seboregulative properties which make these preservative-free formulations an excellent choice for acne-prone and inflamed skin. In addition tho that using calendula extract,  patchouli and ginger essential oils and hemp seed oil impart anti-inflammatory properties which is exactly what an acne-prone skin needs. The product can be used as a cleanser or as a rinse-off mask and be wiped out with a damp towel or rinsed-off after 15-20 minutes.

We prepared two variations of the basic formulation to show you how easily you can modify a formulation and change the optic or impart additional goodness.

The more elaborate version contains the skin prebiotic and feeds and helps regulate the skin microbiome. Those tiny creatures over the skin will take care of themselves and regulate their population (meaning downregulating bacteria that cause inflammation and acne break out) in an autonomous way when they are fed correctly. Since the prebiotic is a water soluble ingredient we need a water soluble carrier to impart it in the formulation. For this purpose we use a high concentration glycerine. The formulation/product remains still preservative-free because the water activity is too low to allow any bacterial growth but adding the glycerin has its toll on the appearance and the product becomes slightly opaque.

You can see the products side by side in this photo:

acne-relief gel-to-milk cleanser: Left: the prebiotic version, Right: the non-prebiotic version

We shared the formulation and procedure for the prebiotic one earlier on our telegram channel and you can watch the short video here:

prebiotic gel-to-milk cleanser

In today's video we are going to show you how to make the non-prebiotic one which is slightly easier to make and makes a beautiful transparent gel.
I would very much love to hear your feedback if you make both versions.

Phase A Dosage
Sapogel Q 25,0%
Phase B
Isoamyl laurate 34,0%
Hemp oil 13,6%
Triheptanoin 12,0%
Cedar nut oil 10,0%
Tamanu oil 2,0%
Copaiba resin 1,0%
Natural active decalact sebum 1,0%
Tocopherol 0,3%
Curcuma xanthorrhiza extract 0,5%
Calendula extract 0,1%
Ginger oil 0,2%
Patchouli oil 0,1%
Cedarwood oil 0,2%
The transparency and optic of the product depends highly on the polarity of the oils. If you swap any ingredient or change the composition the final product might look slightly different but that would still be effective.


1- measure phase A and B separately in 2 beakers

If you are working in a cold lab and your ingredients are stored cold, some of the oils and extracts might have sedimented or partially solidified. You need to gently warm them (40 oC) and shake the bottle before using them

2- Slowly and little by little add phase B to phase A and completely blend before adding the next portion.

This is a patience test for you because this step is quite tiresome and time consuming. An overhead stirrer makes the life much easier but you can manage small quantities even with a spatula.

3- When both phases are completely blended take your stability samples and fill the product in a suitable bottle.

To avoid contamination it is better to fill this product in a tube, squeeze bottle or an airless jar or bottle

Watch the video here:

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