Bakuchiol multi balm/serum (2 ways)

Today we are going to share 2 balm/serums that feel amazing on the skin. No matter what age, season and climate, your skin will be thankful for all this goodness in just one jar.

We will show you 2 ways of making this balm/serum (well actually 3 ways). The first version is the simple version for novices. If you have not too much experience with working powders in a formulation first work with this version. The product is a rich balm with a beautiful orange color and with an amazing skin feel.

This is a 100% oil/butter product and as expected leaves some shine over the skin. For a night care that is absolutely all right but for a day care that shine might not be so pleasant. This is why we made the second version which is slightly more elaborate. This version contains two texture modifier powders the modified rice starch and the oat silk.

They have a mattifying effect and impart a powdery skin feel over the skin and the product will be even suitable for day care and even under the makeup. Adding both these powders will slightly change the color of the serum. You can keep the serum as it is but by whipping it, the texture becomes even smoother and the color becomes lighter and the overall product looks rather like a rich cream than a balm.

Try whatever version you feel comfortable and inclined to or try them both and see which one appeals to you and your customers more. This is one of the easiest and fastest way to make your customers happy.

Version 1(no powder)

Phase A Dosage
Glyceryl dibehenate 6,0%
Mango butter 30,0%
Murumuru butter 15,0%
Phase B
Moringa oil 5,0%
Olive squalane 3,0%
Triheptanoin 9,1%
Cedar nut oil 9,0%
Tocopherol 0,3%
Phase C
DEFENSIL®-PLUS 3,0%
Watermelon seed oil 5,0%
Amaranth CO2 extract 2,0%
Prickly pear oil 2,0%
Goji berry CO2 extract 2,0%
Black cumin CO2 extract 1,0%
Pomegranate CO2 extract 2,0%
Carrot CO2 extract 1,0%
Walnut oil 2,0%
Bakuchiol 1,0%
liq vit C 0,5%
Pro Vit D 0,1%
Grapefruit oil 1,0%

Procedure:

1- Blend phase A  in a heat resistant beaker.

2- Heat in a water bath between 80-85 C until the G2b is completely melted

3- Start cooling down while stirring occasionally

4- Add phase B and continue cooling and stirring

5- At a temperature < 35 C add phase C

6- Continue cooling down and stirring.

7- When the balm has solidified and reached RT fill in suitable jars.  It might still seem very runny but at this point you can easily fill it in jars.

8- Wait for the consitency to fix for 24 hours

Version 2(with powders)

When working with powders it is most important to avoid creating lumps. We do this by adding the powders through a sieve. This takes a while but guarantees a smooth and non-grainy product.

Ingredients:

Phase A Dosage
Glyceryl dibehenate 6,0%
Mango butter 30,0%
Murumuru butter 15,0%
Phase B
Moringa oil 4,0%
Olive squalane 3,0%
Triheptanoin 6,1%
Cedar nut oil 5,0%
Watermelon seed oil 5,0%
DEFENSIL®-PLUS 3,0%
Amaranth CO2 extract 2,0%
Prickly pear oil 2,0%
Goji berry CO2 extract 2,0%
Black cumin CO2 extract 1,0%
Pomegranate CO2 extract 2,0%
Carrot CO2 extract 1,0%
Walnut oil 2,0%
Bakuchiol 1,0%
Tocopherol 0,3%
liq vit C 0,5%
Pro Vit D 0,1%
Grapefruit oil 1,0%
Phase C
Modified rice starch 5,0%
Oat silk 3,0%

Procedure:

1- Blend phase A  in a heat resistant beaker.

2- Heat in a water bath between 80-85 C until the G2b is completely melted

3- Start cooling down while stirring occasionally

4- Use a sieve to disperse phase C in phase B

5- Add phase B+C when temperature reaches <45 C and continue cooling and stirring

6-  When the balm solidifies you can either:

a- Fill in suitable jars.  It might still seem very runny but at this point you can easily fill it in jars.  Wait for the consitency to fix for 24 hours

b- Whip the balm. You may need to do this in several cycles with cooling cycles in between

Watch the video for the second version here

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