Since I tested PG-4 caprate I am obsessed with cleansing balms. It just happened that our stability tests were done at the end of summer and so we are making cleansing balm after cleansing balm for the fall/winter when the skin needs something more substantial than just a light foam or a cleansing gel.
This is another easy cleansing balm that I am sure you will love. It is easy to make and it is fun to use. It has a juicy, creamy texture, is easily applied over the skin and turned into a milk when you rinse it with water and leaves a silky skin feel. It doesn't feel greasy after rinsing yet doesn't have that dry/itchy skin feel after you apply a cleansing gel or a soap.
Here again we are using the G2B (glyceryl dibehenate) in the formulation it has several impacts on the formulation and texture:
1- You need a high temperature to melt it. Much higher than the usual butters
2- It improves the thermal stability of the balm yet imparts a juicy texture that you do not get when only using butters and waxes
3- Despite it high melting point it takes a long time to settle. This means you need to judge the texture after about 3-5 days and see if you like it (make your first batch as small as possible). On the other hand this gives you enough time to fill your jars and containers as the balm is still quite fluid
We are using the Emogreen C69 here for a lighter texture (and it has a higher thermal stability than plant oils). You certainly can replace it with any liquid plant oil but the skin feel, the texture and the oxidative stability and the shelf-life will be different
The formulation and procedure are rather straightforward
Procedure:
1- Melt phase A between 85-90 C
2- Blend phase B and C in separate vessels
3- When phase A is completely melted add phase B and stop heating.
4- When all butters are melted add phase C and start cooling while stirring
5- The balm reaches the final texture in about 3 days. You can whip it or fill it as it is in suitable containers
