Recently I worked on a project for a customer who wanted a light moisturizer with a low concentration of shea butter. Since the outcome was quite awesome I decided to publish one of our prototype formulations that lead to the final formulation for the customer.
The formulation is really simple yet the number of phases is rather high. This is because we want to make sure that each ingredient is added at the suitable pH and temperature range for improved stability.
What you need to take care of:
As always, when working with GSC you need to buffer the formulation. This is why we are using na-citrate in the water phase. Another matter to take care of is to add the nicotinamide and the preservative blend at teh suitable pH. For the nicotinamide it is between 4,5-6,5 and for the preservative blend it is between 4,9-6,0. At the end of the process you need to adjust the pH between 5,2-5,5.
If you are still struggling with pH measurement and adjustment we have a few digital files that can help you:
Now let's jump to the formulation and procedure:
Procedure:
1- Heat phase A and B in a water bath around 83-86 C
2- When both phases are homogeneous emulsify the oil phase in the water phase
3- Start stirring while the emulsion cools down. Disperse and hydrate the gum in the still hot emulsion.
Here we have a free digital file about gum dispersion:
4- Add phase D at a temperature between 45-55 C and continue cooling down under stirring
5- At a temperature under 40 C add phase E.
6- Add aloe powder and the vegeluron.
7- Prepare a 10% dilution and measure the pH before you add the nicotinamide. It must be between 4,5-6,5 when you add it.
8- Add the preservative blend. Prepare another 10% dilution and remeasure the pH. Add lactic acid to reduce the pH between 5,2-5,5
9- Take your stability and microkit samples and fill the rest in suitable jars
