We finally jumped from winter directly into a hot summer skipping the spring completely. This beautiful lotion has summer written over every single emulsion droplet but you certainly can use it all year around.
We are blending two awesome emulsifiers here to enhance the stability, texture and skin feel:
Montanov 68
and our beloved GSC
The result is a rich and stable yet not fatty and sticky emulsion.
The procedure is really easy and straightforward. We are using macadamia oil as the base oil, triheptanoin which is a polar triglyceride for a light and enhanced skin feel, passionfruit and cherry oil for their awesome skin feel and fatty acid profile
as well as the evening primrose extract for its anti-inflammatory properties.
We used the fluid ceramide for enhancing the barrier properties of the skin (you know, all that sunshine and heat during summer and the cold wind during the winter can really have their toll on the skin barrier)
and just a little bit of paprika CO2 extract (can you believe, only 0,1% ?) to create this beautiful color
Working with GSC and Montanov68:
GSC is an easy to work with anionic emulsifier. Its only requirement is buffering the emulsion which we do by adding 0,5% sodium citrate to the emulsion. If you don't buffer the emulsion the pH will change rapidly during the storage time having a negative impact on the stability and the shelf-life of the emulsion. If you still struggle with buffers and buffering we have an ebooklet for you to help you understand the buffers and why and how we buffer certain formulations
Montanov68 is as well a rather easy to work with emulsifier that creates liquid crystal structure with an improved glide and skin feel and a long-term hydration. When working with LC emulsifiers you need to avoid over stirring of the emulsion. This is specifically important when you are working in an artisanal lab and using hand held mixers for the homogenization.
Now let's jump to the formulation
The modified rice starch is added to enhance the skin feel, improve the texture, increase the viscosity and impart a dry skin feel. You certainly can keep it out but the texture and skin feel will be different
Procedure:
1- Heat phase A and B separately between 82-85 C
2- Homogenize the oil phase in the water phase (don't over stir)
3- Stop cooling while stirring (turning to an overhead stirrer or simply muscle strength for manual stirring)
4- Disperse and hydrate the gum in the still hot emulsion and continue stirring
5- At a temperature >45 C add the ceramide and continue cooling down and stirring.
6- When the emulsion reaches a temperature <35C add phases E and F (keep the lactic acid) and continue stirring
7- As the emulsion reaches RT prepare a 10% dilution and measure the pH. The preservative we are using works independent of the pH yet we still aim for a pH between 4,8-5,5
8- Add lactic acid to adjust the pH. Since this emulsion is buffered you will need more lactic acid (and patience) to reduce the pH than usual. Add the lactic acid gradually to avoid the yo-yo pH-effect.
9- Take your stability and microbial samples and fill the rest in suitable containers.
