Centella asiatica (or tiger grass) is among the hottest and highly praised anti-inflammatory ingredients at the moment and we have been searching for a reasonable and "green" source of the extract to add to our shop.
We have sourced an unpreserved hydroglyceric extract which is palm free as well (the glycerine is derived from rapeseeds) and in this post we are sharing the formulation for an anti-inflammatory, prebiotic hydrating toner.
The formulation is boosted with lots of active ingredients specifically helpful for irritated and sensitive skin such as D-Panthenol, allantoin, nicotinamide and of course the centella asiatica extract. We have tried to create an effective hydrating toner without any unpleasant after feel and tackiness. The formulation and procedure are rather straightforward. The main part of the procedure is dedicated to measuring the pH before adding pH sensitive ingredients.
Formulation:
| Phase A | Dosage |
|---|---|
| Calendula hydrosol | to 100,0% |
| Neroli hydrosol | 25,0% |
| Aquaxyl | 2,0% |
| Aloe leaf powder | 0,5% |
| D-Panthenol | 0,5% |
| Skin prebiotic | 2,0% |
| Centella asiatica extract | 2,0% |
| Allantoin | 0,1% |
| L-Arginin | 0,1% |
| Chelator PA3 | 0,1% |
| Phase B | |
| Cross-linked hyaluron | 3,0% |
| Vegeluron eco | 1,0% |
| Ronacare renoumer | 2,0% |
| Phase C | |
| Nicotinamide | 3,0% |
| Phase D | |
| Preservative 1388 eco | 3,0% |
| Versatile preservative BL | 0,5% |
| Lactic acid | to adjust the pH |
Procedure:
1- Blend all the ingredients in phase A @RT. A magnetic stirrer is a great help but you can easily manage small batches with a spatula.
2- Measure the pH (prepare a 10% dilution if you are working in a small batch. If not take a sample and measure it directly). The pH must be between 5,0-6,0 before you add phase B. In our case it was 5,29
3- Add phase B and blend completely. It will take a while till vegeluron and cross-linked hyaluron are completely blended. Here again a magnetic stirrer is a great help and time saver.
4- Add the nicotinamide. You can measure the pH before adding the nicotinamide to make sure it is between 5,0-6,0. In our case it was 5,04.
5- Nicotinamide will slightly increase the pH (to 5,20). Add the preservative and measure the pH again. The preservative blend we are using has slightly increased the pH to 5,45 . We aim for a pH between 5,2-5,5
6- Take your micro kit and stability samples and fill the rest in suitable containers.
You can watch the video here
