After enjoying a long and hot summer it's time to ready the skin for the dry and cold fall-winter weather. For this purpose we are combining some amazing plant oils such as the watermelon seed oil and raspberry oil, the fluid ceramide, cross-linked hyaluron and nicotimamide.
This is certainly not a KISS formulation and is not for weak hearts. Although the W/O emulsion with this emulsifier is basically as easy as a walk in the park and you can even create amazing cold-process emulsion with a very nice skin feel, in this certain emulsion we need to proceed through a warm-warm process because the fluid ceramide needs a temperature of at least 40 C for incorporation.
This is still no hot process and you see that we used some plant oils with a high iodine value. We heated the oil and water phases between 40-45 C and that's still a safe range for using plant oils with a high iodine value.
If you have never used Neocare P3R or have never worked with a such complex formulation, we recommend you first start with some KISS formulations such as:
Step-by-step cold process water in oil emulsion
Cream de la cream: A mind-blowing W/O shea cream
A KISS water in oil emulsion
before jumping to this non KISS formulation.
* We are using a cold-process emulsion. Basically you can use any cols process emulsion in a hot or warm process but not the vice versa
* Usually cold process emulsions are slightly more tricky to make because you need to compensate for the lack of thermal energy with the mechanical energy
* For a W/O emulsion you need to measure and adjust the pH of the water phase before you blend the water and oil phase
*In addition, you need to measure and adjust the pH of the water phase before adding the nicotinamide
*Although you can create amazing stable emulsions with this emulsifier and by using just a plant oil, the stability is enhanced by using some more polar oils
*This emulsifier creates low viscosity and sprayable emulsions. You can create high viscosity creams by using some butters and waxes in the oil phase such as this beautiful shea cream
If you are confused and unnerved with all those steps in pH adjustment, we have the right free-masterclass for you
And if you have any questions about the polar and non-polar oils and the impact of the oil polarity, we have collected all our related posts into a bundle for you:
Now let's jump to the formulation and procedure for this beautiful barrier enhancer lotion
Ingredients:
| Phase A | Dosage |
|---|---|
| Bamboo hydrosol | to 100,0% |
| MgCl2 | 1,0% |
| Aquaxyl | 2,0% |
| Aloe leaf powder | 0,5% |
| D-Panthenol | 0,5% |
| Skin prebiotic | 2,0% |
| Na lactate | 2,5% |
| Na-PCA | 2,0% |
| L-Arginin | 0,2% |
| Cross-linked hyaluron | 3,0% |
| Phase B | |
| Nicotinamide | 3,0% |
| Phase C | |
| Neocare P3R | 5,0% |
| Watermelon seed oil | 6,0% |
| Rosehip oil | 5,0% |
| Raspberry oil | 3,0% |
| Olive squalane | 2,0% |
| Defensil+ | 3,0% |
| Triheptanoin | 2,0% |
| Amaranth CO2 extract | 0,5% |
| Fluid ceramide NP | 1,0% |
| Tocopherol | 0,3% |
| Liq vit C | 0,3% |
| Phase D | |
| No Kons PA20 | 1,0% |
| Ylang-ylang oil | 0,5% |
| Bergamot oil | 0,5 |
Procedure:
1- Prepare phase A and C in separate heat-proof beakers. You can use a magnetic stirrer to blend phase A and accelerate incorporation of the powders in the hydrosol.
2- Measure the pH of phase A (prepare a 10% dilution). It must be between 5,0-5,5 as you add the nicotinamide (phase B). In our case it was 5,19
3- Add the nicotinamide. Prepare another dilution and remeasure the pH. The pH must remain in 5,0-5,5 range. In our case it was 5,35
4- Heat phases A+B and C separately between 40-45 C. You can do this best (in small scale) when you use two separate baths. Phase C is the bigger beaker with the stirrer.
5- Gradually and little by little ad the water phase to the oil phase. Completely blend before adding the next portion. Keep an eye on the temperature the whole time
6- When both phases are completely blended stop heating and continue stirring. After about 30 minutes add phase D
7- Fill in suitable containers and enjoy
You can watch the video here
