I seldom make non-KISS formulations. Even for bespoke and individual commissions I usually remain by KISS and this serum-cream is certainly one of the rare non-KISS exceptions. Believe me when I tell you the result is mind blowing and every single ingredient here has a purpose and I wouldn't take it out. The oil content of the cream is rather low but it is filled with lots of active ingredients such as hyaluron, vegeluron, bakuchiol and lots of plant extracts with a high content of phytosterols and other active ingredients.
The result is a rich cream with a dry, luxurious skin feel. Something you can hardly achieve by using only plant oils and no ester-oils. This is rather a serum than a cream but depending on taste and climate you can use it either way.
Although the number of ingredients is quite high the procedure is rather straightforward. Make this cream/serum as a Xmas gift for yourself. You deserve an extravagant pampering at the end of the year.
| Phase A | Dosage |
|---|---|
| Distilled or deionized water | to 100,0% |
| Aquaxyl | 3,0% |
| Chelator PA3 | 0,1% |
| Phase B | |
| Solagum AX | 0,3% |
| Tara gum | 0,1% |
| Phase C | |
| Polyaquol 2W | 5,0% |
| Marula oil | 3,0% |
| Olive squalane | 2,0% |
| Triheptanoinm | 4,0% |
| Tocopherol | 0,3% |
| Phase D | |
| D-panthenol | 1,0% |
| Vegeluron eco | 3,0% |
| Cross-linked hyaluron | 3,0% |
| NaPCA | 2,5% |
| Phase E | |
| Raspberry CO2 extract | 1,0% |
| Rosehip CO2 extract | 1,0% |
| Amaranth CO2 extract | 1,0% |
| Black cumin CO2 extract | 0,5% |
| Goji berry CO2 extract | 0,5% |
| Bakuchiol | 0,5% |
| Liquid vit C | 0,5% |
| Phase F | |
| No-Kons PA20 | 1,0% |
| Geranium oil | 0,3% |
| Ginger oil | 0,2% |
| Lactic acid | To adjust the pH |
Procedure:
1- Blend phase A and C in separate heat-proof beakers
2- Disperse and hydrate the gum blend (phase B) in phase A @RT
3- Heat phase A+B and C in a water bath between 82-85 C
4- Emulsify the oil phase in the water phase
5- Start cooling down while stirring
6- When the temperature reaches under 50 C add the sensitive phases (Phase D and E)
7- When the emulsion reaches <35 C add the preservative system and the essential oils. The preservative system works independent of the pH
8- When the emulsion reaches the room temperature prepare a 10% dilution and measure the pH. In our case it was 5,62.
9- Reduce the pH by adding lactic acid. If you are making this formulation for the first time add the lactic acid gradually and measure the pH in between.
10- Prepare another dilution of the emulsion and measure the pH. In our case it was 4,95. We are aiming for a pH between 4,9-5,5.
11- Take the stability and micro kit samples and fill the rest in a suitable container
Stay safe and creative
