I usually make KISS formulations and quite often preach the benefits of making KISS formulations. Every now and then however I jump over the borders and create a non KISS formulation.
I have so many amazing oils and extracts on the shelves that we use only sparingly because they are heat sensitive and in this formulation since it is cold processed I desperately wanted to use some of those amazing oils and extracts. This is why the formulation looks like a salad of ingredients. I am really amazed by the results though and love the texture and the skin feel of this emulsion.
Don't get intimidated by the long list of ingredients and number of phases. You certainly can simplify the formulation by choosing just one or two oil and just one of the active ingredients in phase D.
Procedure:
1- Blend phase A in a heat proof beaker and heat it to 45 C
2- Disperse and hydrate the gum at this temperature for at least 40 minutes
3- Stop heating. Blend phase C in another beaker
4- Homogenize phase C in A+B and stir while you add phase D
5- When the emulsion reaches RT add the preservative.
6- Prepare a 10% dilution and measure the pH. The preservative we are using is not pH sensitive yet we aim for a pH between 4,9-5,5.
7- Add lactic acid to reduce the pH in the range (ours was 5,2 at the end)
As you can see we use a hydrosol with a reduced pH at the beginning and then add l-Arginin in the water phase to increase the pH before adding other ingredients and at the end reduce the pH. If all of this reducing and increasing pH is overwhelming for you we have a suitable file for you:
Here the procedure step-by-step
