I hope you enjoyed the post from the last week. The KISS formulation with the ceramide NP. That was a warm-up formulation to show you how to use this ingredient in an emulsion and today we are going to jazz it up by adding more active ingredients, humectants, anti-inflammatory cosmeceuticals and plant extracts with special function.
Despite all my love and passion for KISS formulation, every now and then I indulge myself with an audaciously presumptuous formulation. If you have never worked with the liquid ceramide I strictly recommend you start with the KISS formulation and after you are confident about the stability of that formulation proceed to more complex formulations.
Formulation:
| Phase A | Dosage |
|---|---|
| Distilled or deionized water | to 100,0% |
| Aquaxyl | 2,0% |
| Chelator PA3 | 0,1% |
| Phase B | |
| Polyaquol 2W | 5,0% |
| Tigernut oil | 15,0% |
| Olive squalane | 2,0% |
| Modified rice starch | 5,0% |
| Tocopherol | 0,3% |
| Phase C | |
| Solagum AX | 0,3% |
| Tara gum | 0,1% |
| Phase D | |
| Fluid ceramide NP | 1,0% |
| Defensil+ | 1,0% |
| Prickly pear seed oil | 2,0% |
| Phase E | |
| D-panthenol | 0,5% |
| Na-PCA | 1,0% |
| Vegeluron eco | 2,0% |
| Gotu kola extract | 1,0% |
| Phase F | |
| no-Kons PA20 | 1,0% |
| Patchouli oil | 0,2% |
| Green mandarin oil | 0,8% |
| Lactic acid | to adjust the pH |
Procedure:
1- Blend phase A and B in separate heat-proof beakers
2- Heat phase A and B in a water bath between 82-85 C
3- Emulsify the oil phase in the water phase
4- Disperse the gum blend in the still hot emulsion and continue stirring while cooling down
5- At a temperature between 40-50 C add phase D
6- After a while add Phase E
7- When the emulsion reaches the room temperature prepare a 10% dilution and measure the pH. In our case it was 5,72.
8- add the preservative system and the essential oils. The preservative system works independent of the pH
9- Reduce the pH by adding lactic acid. If you are making this formulation for the first time add the lactic acid gradually and measure the pH in between.
10- Prepare another dilution of the emulsion and measure the pH. In our case it was 5,45. We are aiming for a pH between 4,9-5,5.
11- Take the stability and micro kit samples and fill the rest in a suitable container
You can watch the video here
and download the printable formulation and procedure here
