Jazzed up ceramide cream

I hope you enjoyed the post from the last week. The KISS formulation with the ceramide NP. That was a warm-up formulation to show you how to use this ingredient in an emulsion and today we are going to jazz it up by adding more active ingredients, humectants, anti-inflammatory cosmeceuticals and plant extracts with special function.

Despite all my love and passion for KISS formulation, every now and then I indulge myself with an audaciously presumptuous formulation. If you have never worked with the liquid ceramide I strictly recommend you start with the KISS formulation and after you are confident about the stability of that formulation proceed to more complex formulations.


Phase A Dosage
Distilled or deionized water to 100,0%
Aquaxyl 2,0%
Chelator PA3 0,1%
Phase B
Polyaquol 2W 5,0%
Tigernut oil 15,0%
Olive squalane 2,0%
Modified rice starch 5,0%
Tocopherol 0,3%
Phase C
Solagum AX 0,3%
Tara gum 0,1%
Phase D
Fluid ceramide NP 1,0%
Defensil+ 1,0%
Prickly pear seed oil 2,0%
Phase E
D-panthenol 0,5%
Na-PCA 1,0%
Vegeluron eco 2,0%
Gotu kola extract 1,0%
Phase F
no-Kons PA20 1,0%
Patchouli oil 0,2%
Green mandarin oil 0,8%
Lactic acid to adjust the pH


1- Blend phase A and B in separate heat-proof beakers

2-  Heat phase A and B in a water bath between 82-85 C

3- Emulsify the oil phase in the water phase

4- Disperse the gum blend in the still hot emulsion and continue stirring while cooling down

5- At a temperature between 40-50 C add phase D

6- After a while add Phase E

7- When the emulsion reaches the room temperature prepare a 10% dilution and measure the pH. In our case it was 5,72.

8- add the preservative system and the essential oils. The preservative system works independent of the pH

9- Reduce the pH by adding lactic acid. If you are making this formulation for the first time add the lactic acid gradually and measure the pH in between.

10- Prepare another dilution of the emulsion and measure the pH. In our case it was 5,45. We are aiming for a pH between 4,9-5,5.

11- Take the stability and micro kit samples and fill the rest in a suitable container

You can watch the video here

and download the printable formulation and procedure here

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