Can you remember our previous post/video in which we kept the framework formulation constant and just varied the oil phase concentration?
Well thanks to the emulsifier we used (Polyaquol 2W) we could emulsify a broad range of oil concentration. We took the 1% oil emulsion and jazzed it up to create a very light hydrating emulsion with an amazing skin feel.
This emulsion is excellent for hot and humid weather and for those individuals who does not like a heavy cream on their skin.
The formulation is really easy but because of the heat sensitivity of the ingredient we have to break it down into several phases.
1- Blend phase A and B in separate heat proof beakers
2- Heat both phases between 82-85 C
3- Emulsify the oil in the water phase
4- Disperse the gum in the still hot emulsion and start cooling down while stirring
5- At a temperature <40 C slowly add phase D
6- At a temperature <35 C add phase E
7- When the emulsion reaches RT prepare a 10% dilution and measure the pH. In our case it was 6,27.
8- Add lactic acid. Prepare another 10% dilution and remeasure the pH. Adjust the pH between 4,9-5,5