I usually stick to KISS formulations and I am seriously convinced that you can create outstanding effective formulations by staying KISS but every now and then I jump over the edge to create a non-KISS formulation mainly to challenge our lab to enhance its knowledge efficacy in making complex stable emulsions. The lotion I am sharing here is one of those emulsions.
This is not a KISS emulsion in terms of the number of the ingredients or the number of phases and it is definitely not for a faint heart or a novice formulator. The results are however mind blowing.
The silky and unique light touch of lysolecithin together with 3 layers of hyaluron + active ingredients such as bakuchiol and plant oils and extract such as watermelon seed oil, Amaranth and black cumin extract take the skin to a luxury SPA without any need to leave your couch.
Feel free to simplify this formulation the first time you are making it. If you are not quite confident with making cold process emulsions heat the oil and water phases to 40 C and after you are happy with the stability try the cold process.
We first disperse the powder hyalurons in the water phase. Then Hydrate the lysolecithin in the water phase. After that we disperse the gum and add the cross-linked hyaluron.
The oil phase has a large number of ingredients but they are all blended together and in one single container. Homogenization is @RT and with the IKA Ultra Turrax for about 2-2,5 min. Then the emulsion is further stirrer @RT for 1 hour before measuring the pH and adding the preservative.
Procedure:
1- Blend phase A and F @RT in separate beakers.
2- Disperse phase B in phase A
3- Add the lysolecithin to A+B and hydrate for 1 hr @RT
4- Disperse the gum
5- Add the oil phase to the water phase and homogenize
6- Stir @RT for at least one hour
7- Make a 10% dilution and measure the pH
8- Add lactic acid to reduce the pH if necessary. The preservative we are using works independent of pH but we aim for a pH between 4,8-5,5.
9- Add the preservative.
10- Take your stability and microkit samples and fill the rest in a spray, dropper or a lotion bottle
