Cosmegreen ES1822+ or as it is called in our online shop the "green conditioner base" is an easy to work with and a fail-proof ingredient.
We have shared a couple of formulations and tutorials with this conditioner base such as :
No fuss hair conditioner
This conditioner works with different oil content ranges and creates a smooth and rich texture without building up or adding weight to the hair.
The only thing you need to consider when working with this conditioner is the "buffering". And if you are unfamiliar with the buffering and don't know how it is done you can have a look at this post in our member's portal:
Buffers and buffering in cosmetic lab
For today's tutorial we have prepared two versions of a green tea conditioner. The first version is the simple one (with no gums) and the second version is the more elaborate version. We wanted to increase the viscosity and flow and add some richness to the conditioner without adding any greasiness. We added a non-ionic gum which is our tara gum to the water phase and we will show you this version in the video. If you want to make the conditioner without the gum then you just drop it and escape the gum dispersion and hydration step and that makes the procedure even simpler and faster. Just keep in mind that if you are going to work with a gum you only can use a nonionic or a cationic gum.
The formulation is not quite KISS but not very complicated at all.
Buffering
We are working with the green conditioner base in this formulation and the products made with this ingredient must be buffered to avoid pH drift and instability.
You need to add a lactic acid/ lactae buffer to the conditioner no matter what the end pH would be. (We have a detailed post about buffering cosmetic formulations in our members' only portal if you want to know more about this subject)
For small laboratory batches prepare the buffer solution by mixing the following @RT. Keep the buffer in a closed bottle in the fridge and use the content within 2 weeks:
Sodium lactate (50%) 42%
Lactic acid (80%) 8%
Water t0 50,0%
We have used 4% of this buffer solution in the video
Formulation
| Phase A | Dosage |
|---|---|
| Distilled or deionized water | to 100,0% |
| Glycerin | 5,0% |
| Aquaxyl | 2,0% |
| alcohol-free chelator complex | 0,1% |
| L-arginin | 0,1% |
| Na-gluconate | 0,1% |
| Phase B | |
| Tara gum | 0,2% |
| Phase C | |
| Green conditioner base | 5,0% |
| Green tea wax | 2,0% |
| Olive squalane | 2,0% |
| green silicone alternative | 2,0% |
| Shea butter | 2,0% |
| Macadamia oil | 2,0% |
| Baobab oil | 2,0% |
| Phase D | |
| D-panthenol | 1,5% |
| Lactate/lactic acid buffer | 4,0% |
| aloe leaf powder | 0,5% |
| Phase E | |
| Tocopherol | 0,3% |
| Bergamot oil | 1,0% |
| No-Kons PA20 | 1,0% |
Procedure:
1- Blend phase A @RT and heat it around 60-65 C
2- Disperse and hydrate the tara gum at this temperature
3- Blend phase C in another beaker
4- Heat phase A+B and C in a water bath between 80-85 C
5- When phase C is compltely melted stop heating and emulsify the oil phase in the water phase
6- Start cooling while stirring
7- Blend phases D and E separately @RT. The aloe takes a while to completely dissolve in panthenol+ buffer but at the end you will have a clear yellow-ish solution
8- As the conditioner cools down and at a temperature lower than 40 C add phase D and then phase E.
9- Take a 10% dilution and measure the pH . We aim for a pH between 3-4,5 and in our case it was 4,2.
10- Take your microkit and stability samples and fill the rest in a suitable container.
You can watch the video here
