Lysolecithin is an emulsifier that can be used hot or cold and obviously and for the planet's sake we shall cold process as much as it is possible. Sometimes however you need to hot or warm process because you are using certain ingredients that are not cold processable.
In today's tutorial we are sharing a non-KISS formulation with an outstanding skin feel. Since we are using the sclerotium which needs heat for full hydration, we used some other ingredients that need gentle heating for incorporation. Here we are using shea butter and the fluid ceramide for a barrier protective emulsion with a phospholipid touch.
Don't be intimidated by the long list of ingredients and number of phases. You can simplify the list and reduce the ingredients. You can even add the CO2 extracts to the oil phase and heat them gently for a short time.
For a warm up, you can go back to this KISS formulation with lysolecithin before you proceed here
Dr. Elham Eghbali
Procedure:
1- Blend phase A in a heat proof beaker
2- Heat the beaker in a water bath between 40-50 C
3- Disperse the gum and hydrate it at this temperature for 30-40 minutes
4- Add lysolecithin and stir for 10 minutes while still heating.
5- Blend phase D in another beaker. Heat phase D between 50-55 C
6- Homogenize phase D in the water phase
7- Add the ceramide to the still warm emulsion and start cooling down while stirring
8- As you continue stirring add phases F&G
9- Prepare a 10% dilution and measure the pH. In our case it was 5,01 and we didn't change it. You may need to reduce the pH with lactic acid. The preservative we are using works independent of the pH
10- Take your stability and micro kit samples and fill the rest in suitable bottles
