Jazzed up shea and cocoa butter cream

Can you remember the KISS shea and cocoa butter cream formulation of a few weeks ago?
We jazzed it up after our stability testing was satisfactory by adding vegeluron and a few plant extracts and here is the result


1- Blend phase A and B in separate heat-proof beakers

2- Heat phase A and B in a water bath between 80-85 C

3- Emulsify the oil phase in the water phase

4- Disperse the gum in the still hot emulsion

5- Start cooling down while stirring

6- When the temperature reaches under 50 C add the sensitive phases (Phase D). The prebiotic builds a lump in panthenol /vegeluron at this concentration but don't worry it will easily dissolve and disperse in the emulsion.

7- When the emulsion reaches <35 C add phase E. The preservative system works independent of the pH

8- When the emulsion reaches the room temperature prepare a 10% dilution and measure the pH. In our case it was 6,52.

9- Reduce the pH by adding lactic acid. If you are making this formulation for the first time add the lactic acid gradually and measure the pH in between.

10- Prepare another dilution of the emulsion and measure the pH. In our case it was 5,32. We are aiming for a pH between 4,9-5,5.

11- Take the stability and micro kit samples and fill the rest in a suitable container

This is a very forgiving emulsifier but it needs buffering. If you have no clue what buffering is you can order our file about buffering cosmetic formulations.

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