Soothing calendula cream

A few weeks ago we shared the tutorial for an oil-free emulsion with a very light skin feel suitable as a summer moisturizer. We took that emulsion to the next level by increasing the viscosity and adding more active ingredients to enhance the soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

This is not a KISS emulsion and the list of the ingredients is rather long but every single ingredient is worth adding here and is doing a certain job. The oil content is still very low and the skin feel is very light (despite the thick consistency and high viscosity)

Phase A Dosage
Distilled or deionized water to 100,0%
Aquaxyl 2,0%
Chelator PA3 0,1%
Na-citrate 0,5%
Phase B
Natural emulsifier GSC POF 5,0%
Triheptanoin 15,0%
Modified rice starch 5,0%
Tocopherol 0,3%
Phase C
Solagum AX 0,3%
Tara gum 0,1%
Phase D
D-panthenol 1,0%
Na-lactate 2,5%
Gotu kola extract 3,0%
Skin prebiotic 2,0%
Allantoin 0,1%
Phase E
alpha-bisabolol 0,2%
Calendula CO2 extract 0,3%
Cedar nut oil 2,0%
Phase F
Cedar wood oil 0,5%
Mandarine oil 0,5%
Phase G
no-Kons PA20 1,0%
Lactic acid to adjust the pH


1- Blend phase A and B in separate heat-proof beakers

2-  Heat phase A and B in a water bath between 82-85 C.

The starch doesn't dissolve nor melt in the oil phase. This means the oil phase remains milky the whole time. You just want to melt the emulsifier and get the oil phase to a uniform consistency and temperature before blending the oil and water phase

3- Emulsify the oil phase in the water phase

4- Disperse the gum blend in the still hot emulsion

5- Start cooling down while stirring

6- When the temperature reaches under 40 C add the sensitive phases (Phase D and E)

7- When the emulsion reaches the room temperature prepare a 10% dilution and measure the pH. In our case it was 6,59.

8- Reduce the pH by adding lactic acid. If you are making this formulation for the first time add the lactic acid gradually and measure the pH in between.

9- Prepare another dilution of the emulsion and measure the pH. In our case it was 5,36. We are aiming for a pH between 4,9-5,5.

10-Add the preservative system and the essential oils. The preservative system works independent of the pH and you can add it before adjusting the pH as well.

11- Take the stability and micro kit samples and fill the rest in a suitable container

You can watch the video here

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